> steam version [...] I guess I could try running it with Wine
Seems like you're not familiar with Proton[0], The "Wine + enhancements" compatibility layer that the native Linux version of Steam uses to run the majority[1] of significant Windows games.
User reports are that DF runs without problems under proton[2,3,4]
Anecdotally, as a thoroughgoing and (evidently) shameless cheapskate, I can report the free "classic" ascii only Windows version[5] works well under stock Wine-staging via apt on my Ubuntu laptop.
Having said all that, I share your sadness that a native Linux version wasn't released along with the windows Steam release, though reportedly it is planned for the future[6,7]
I guess I could try running it with Wine but that's not ideal.